Pattern Drafting Versus Free Hand Cutting

So free hand cutting and pattern making?

Well I have been here and there, but I must confess my preference for pattern making, and I am also a huge fan of standard sizes. I hope that is not too much for a beginner.

Ok let me take it one step at a time.

Free hand cutting, I believe a large number of us would be aware of it, but we might not know its name. Free hand cutting entails cutting a fabric directly, making use of the wearer‘s measurement. Tailors chalk may or may not be used to make markings on the fabric. The tailor or seamstress is usually very experienced, and over time have become accustomed to what he or she does (in most cases through trial and error). 

Pattern drafting involves drawing out how the design would be accomplished on paper; making use of dart manipulation. Tools such as French curves, hip curves, set-square (60 and 45 degree), pencil, eraser, tracing wheel, etc are used. Exact measurement is used in pattern drafting. The drafted pattern is then used to cut out the fabric. Pattern can be stored for future use, it saves time especially when many pieces of a particular design in a size is to be made.

Pattern Drafting

Work mode activated

Posing for a picture while pinning pattern to fabric

There is also draping, where fabric is manipulated on a dress form, having the statistics of the wearer.

I am hoping this is not too much.

I have really not had much hands-on draping, but I love results I have seen from the process; fabric can be manipulated to fall forming so much WOW effect designs.

For a person seeking to learn garment production, I would recommend the path of pattern making, where you can learn technicalities of turning a basic , say skirt,to a complicated one, by introducing various design element. An understanding of pattern drafting would help understand the mind process of the free hand cutter.

At OOTI, students are being trained on pattern drafting in achieving design.