Lesson 5 - Understanding Pattern Drafting: The Recipe for Perfect Fit

Sewing is an art, but achieving a perfect fit requires more than just stitching fabric together

If you've ever followed a recipe to cook a meal, then you already understand the concept of pattern drafting. Just as a recipe provides step-by-step instructions to achieve a delicious dish, pattern drafting gives precise guidelines for cutting and shaping fabric to ensure a well-fitted garment.

When it comes to sewing and pattern drafting, accuracy is everything! A small mistake in measurement can lead to a poorly fitting garment, no matter how beautiful the design is. That’s why understanding how to read a measuring tape correctly is a fundamental skill for every fashion designer and sewing enthusiast.  

In today’s session, we will explore:

• the fundamentals of pattern drafting, 
• why it’s essential for creating professional-looking clothes, 
• and how top fashion designers develop their own unique pattern styles
• the difference between inches and centimeters, 
• and how to convert between them effortlessly. 

Whether you’re a beginner or looking to refine your skills, understanding pattern drafting is a game-changer in your sewing journey! And, If you've ever struggled with understanding tape measure markings or how fractions and decimals translate into real-life sewing, this post will simplify it for you. Let’s dive in!

Pattern drafting provides step-by-step instructions on how to create a garment that fits perfectly. These instructions were carefully documented by experts who studied how different body measurements translate into clothing pieces.

The interesting thing is that, you too can become a pattern drafting expert, and create your instructions. Some renowned experts ( popular in Nigeria) in pattern drafting include:

• Helen Armstrong
• Natalie Bray
• Winifred Aldrich
• Suzy Furrer, amongst many others

These names are attached to well-respected drafting methods that fashion designers around the world use. Their process usually starts with creating a basic fit, which is then modified to achieve various styles.

Mastering the Measuring Tape & Conversions in Pattern Drafting

Garment measurements are taken in either inches or centimeters. In Nigeria, we mainly use inches, but some international pattern drafting instructions are in centimeters. 

If needed, measurements can be converted between the two:

🔹 1 inch = 2.54 cm

🔹 1 cm = 0.4 inch

(Think of it like converting naira to dollars, but with a fixed exchange rate 😉🤓!)

Why Reading a Measuring Tape is Important

To draft patterns accurately, you must know how to read a measuring tape. The small marks between whole numbers represent fractions and decimals, and understanding these will:

• Help you draft patterns correctly.
• Ensure you follow sewing allowances accurately.
• Allow you to convert between inches and centimeters with ease.

In pattern drafting and sewing, measurements often need to be divided, multiplied, added, or subtracted. If you struggle with fractions and decimals, you might misplace important markings on your pattern or fabric.

This videos I created, shows how to read the measuring tape.

For inch...

It has 8 marks between two consecutive whole numbers.

For example, if you count the small markings between number 4 and 5 on the inch side of the measuring tape...you will discover that they are 8. Each of these mark is 1/8th inch. So, it increases like this...

1/8

2/8

3/8

4/8

5/8

6/8

7/8

If you divide the above to get a decimal, you will get:

0.125

0.25

0.375

0.5

0.625

0.75

0.875..

This is important to know, so that you can take proper measurements, even when you have fraction or decimal. 

If you want to measure 11.5, what you need to do is to first locate the whole number which is 11, and then the decimal .5 under 11.

I am sure you have learnt a thing or two.

Leave a comment if you have any questions.

Next Lesson: How to Sew a Perfect Zipper

Previous Lesson: Your Growth Plan for Mastering the Sewing Machine